Sunday, August 24, 2008


artikel menarik pasal climbing..

Picking up climbing - Part 1 : Introduction & Overview
by Trevor Allred

So, you've seen the videos: Tom Cruise pulling off crazy unroped stuff on massive cathedrals of rock in MI2. Stallone showing off his bulk dangling on some razor-thin chunks of rock... You're stoked and want to give it a try?

amat lh susah buat aksi ini ye. biler sudah terpaling keblkg, mmg lh impossible utk terpaling kehadapan semula. tgn terbelit2 pastu jatuh. huhu..

But, why the hell would you want to pick up climbing anyway? If it's to impress the chicks with those buffy pecs you'll be disapointed. There's lots of easier ways to work on those instead of groveling through gruesome bloody crack climbs. You'll occasionally rip up your hands and generally scab various body parts.

kalu g climbing tgn x calar2 adalah tipu. selalu nyer kalu climbing, kitorg akan spend the whole day dlm gym. climb sampai muntah! selagi tgn buleh gengam, selagi itu lh akan aku climb. layan~

Occasionally you'll scare the wits out of you. So why do people climb anyway? Not for the hardman image of pure force portrayed in the media.

sbnr nyer aku takut tinggi. lg tinggi aku panjat, lg kuat aku pegang batu tu :) aku climbing sbb nk cabar diri sendiri. halangan adalah peluang utk teroka & perbaiki kemampuan diri. selalu nyer aku climb tinggi2 utk 1 or 2 jam awal dlm gym, time tgn tgh kuat. lepas tu just layan boulder.

Climbing is not all about strength anyway. Many strong man has been humbled by the feminine graciousness and apparent ease of a woman moving over rock.

ouch! very the true. sgt lh tercabar biler terlihat ader aweks dpt lepas route yg ko dh try 42 kali tp x lepas2. bdn pompan adalah flexible!

Climbing is all about balance (it's all about balance? mcm pernah dgr je ayat neh? lecturer chemy utp dulu g climbing ker? hehe..), knowing your body and being able to reposition it in space. It's about creativity, learning to adapt to what the rock has to offer. It's a whole-body exercise and though your upper body gets a fair share of grunt work, your legs and feet are your most important instrument for upward motion. It's about concentration and overcoming your fears for the void.

You don't need to be young or extremely fit to pick up climbing. Many people start later on in their life, and there are excellent climbers of all ages. I personally know some climbers well over fifty that still can compete with the young sharks.

owh, sgt la jeles bile tgk atuk2 or nenek2 bwk cucu2 dia g climbing. asal la embah aku x minat climbing eiks..

For me personally it's all about discovering the natural world around and within you. Climbing will bring you to lots of lovely places and will definitely give you a unique perspective on the world below you.

suatu hari nanti akan aku dpt kn view dr atas itu. satu hari nanti..

You'll learn a couple of things about yourself and the people you climb with. Climbing is both an individualistic and social sport: when you're on the rock you can only count on your skills to get to the top. If you do fall however, you'll have to trust your climbing partner with your life (aku prefer iba jd belayer. kerana keberatan diri nyer, bile aku jatuh iba akan steady & x bergerak2 >:) lg pun iba adalah sgt alert, dia tahu biler ko nk jatuh. kalu nk panjat tinggi2, ader iba adalah best!). Beyond question. No mistakes allowed. This often makes for very strong bonds and relationships.

erm, strong bonds & relationships eik? bagus utk couple2 ker? aku suke tgk part yg laki (belayer) kene marah2 ngan aweks dia (climber) time glabah2 nk jatuh. mase jd belayer utk convofair kt utp dulu, mmg aku saje kasi aweks2 yg naik jatuh. suke tgk diorg gelabah2, sorry ye aweks2 utp..

Learning to climb is very much like learning to ride a bike or ski down a snowy slope. You'll never forget the basic moves, but will need years of practise to perfect them (practice make perfect, tp nk practice celah maner atas laut neh?). Climbing styles come in many flavors. The basic games include: bouldering, indoor climbing, free rock climbing, trad rock climbing, solo climbing, aid climbing, ice climbing and alpine climbing.

Bouldering addicts climb short jumbles of rock, often only a couple of feet high. The key here is linking the moves: because of their short height bouldering problems tend to be fairly intense and technical. It's hundreds of feet of difficulty compressed into 5-10 moves. Unless you're climbing so-called highball problems you'll climb unroped and close enought to the ground to be safe to jump off from.

yeargh, saye suke boulder & ianyer bukan lh sesuatu yg dibuat2. mcm lh geologist, aku mmg pantang tgk batu. akan gegatal lh tgn nk panjat biler berjumpe batu yg lazat. lg pn utk boulder x perlu batu tinggi2, asal ader lekuk je buleh boulder. kalu org yg x biase, sure2 ingat boulder2 adalah giler sbb susah2 pusing keliling setongkai batu. giler x giler, janji aku happy!

During the nineties there's been a renewal of interest for this game. Thousands of bouldering areas have cropped up worldwide. During the late eighties and early nineties climbing on plastic, a.k.a. indoor climbing became of fashion. Most competitions are on plastic nowadays. Indoor gyms are excellent places to learn rope handling techniques and to work on the basic moves. However, most of the diehard climbers agree that there's nothing like natural rock.

natural rock? owh, batu kt pulau kapas best! seriusly best!

Free Climbing is the art of climbing a rock without using your equipment for upward motion. You can only use your arms, hands and other essential body parts to climb. The gear is used for protection only. This is where ethics come into play. A climb is said to be onsighted when a climber leads the climb for the first time without having watched other climbers do it and reaching the end without falling or pulling on gear. If you don't meet these criteria, you have to start over from the ground up to complete the climb.

konsep climbing mase competition. climber dpt tgk route just before dia nk start climbing. beza antara pro & beginner? pro dpt setelkn route 1 shot!

In Trad Climbing, climbers use their own gear for protection whereas in free (a.k.a. sport) climbing pre-drilled bolts are clipped with carabiners. Trad climbers use friends, chocks, stoppers and other passive and active gear instead. These are devices of different shapes you can stick in cracks or holes for protection without damaging the rock. This is called clean climbing and is the only acceptable way of climbing in some areas. Due to the technicity of this kind of climbing it is mostly reserved for advanced climbers.

perlukan equipment yg lengkap. aku pernah try lead climb je & itu pn mase kt utp dulu..

When Aid Climbing the above rules no longer apply. Because of the sheer difficulty of the rock pulling on gear is often the only way to get up. This kind of climbing involves staying on the rock for several days (Climbs called Big Walls.) and handling massive amounts of gear. It requires an extreme level of technical expertise and a certain sense for logistics. You'll have to haul your supplies up the cliff in special haul bags and sleep on the rock in hammocks or portaledges. For adventurous souls only.

kombinasi camping + climbing. wo~ sungguh lh adventurous. nk kene ader modal byk neh. pernah la aku g selection utk Big Wall climb kat Tioman tp adalah gagal :(

Solo Climbing is certainly the most dangerous game and reserved for the truly skilled only. Since you're climbing without any kind of protection, falling is simply not an option. Most climbers do not climb unroped to satisfy their ego. Or at least, those who do don't last long. Solo climbing is all about knowing your own limits and trusting your good judgement. Only a select few choose to climb unprotected and if they do it's a very conscious choice. Do not try this at home!

ini utk manusia2 jiwe kacau. very the true climber, very the rare item & very2 lh insane! knp, x percaya?

Ice Climbers use ice axes to move up frozen waterfalls. Lately mixed climbing and drytooling has gained popularity. This involves climbing mixed faces of rock and ice requiring both excellent traditional rock climbing and technical ice climbing skills.

memanjat air terjun beku? ini adalah cool!

Finally there's Mountain Climbing and Alpine Climbing games. This is where important natural elements come into play. Mountain climbing involves living on ice covered slopes for several days at the mercy of the weather, avalanches and more. A fundamental knowledge of the alpine environment and very advanced technical skills are required. As much adventure as sport, climbers face the inherent dangers because of the beauty of the places they climb in and the pure physical and emotional challenge in these climbs.

ala, dh lame x panjat2 gunung. biler nk dpt naik kinabalu & ledang neh?

For all of these advanced types of climbing proper instruction is fundamental. This series of articles will pinpoint a couple of fundamental principles but was never meant to replace proper instruction. I simply hope to give you a taste of the sport and some guidelines to get you started. Make sure you learn from more experienced climbers or in a climbing school. Trust me, you'll love it.

amacam? ader brani climbing?

Saturday, August 23, 2008

tahniah along!

tahniah knp pulaks ni?
firstly sbb hari ni adalah hari tua along aku yg ke-28 (haha.. sudah tua makcik neh)
secondly sbb hari ni adalah hari dia bertunang!

yup, along aku bertunang & aku luper daratan di turkmenistan.
plan2 nyer mmg nk blk, tp apakn daya mereka2 di sini xpuas hati dgn test mggu lepas.

tghari td dpt la call rmh, tp sekejap je sbb memasing adalah bz & kedengaran riuh sekampung dek sedara-mara aku kt rmh tu.
kempunan la pulaks xdpt join kemeriahan itu.
tpkn, best jugak sbb xpayah membzkn diri buat2 kije rmh >:)

sure mase tgh prepare2 td;
1) embah xhenti2 bebel & xreti2 nk ddk diam
2) emak tensi2 dgn embah & start emo2
3) along kelibut2 dgn perangai emak & embah
4) eenn jd mangse keganasan emak, embah & along
5) busu buat2 pekak & buat2 bz supaya xkene bebel & xmo tensi2
6) abah lepak tgk berite kt tv1
7) & kalu ader aku, aku akan tdo kt sofa dpn tv (cube teka perangai saper saye tiru ini?)

ha' that is my family, kecoh2 kalu ader aper2 event.
kalu yg xbiase tu sure ingat kitorg gaduh2.

aper2 pun along, slmt hari tua & slmt bertunang!
semuga pjg umur & murah rezeki.
wedding plan thn depan eik?
hopefully aku ader kt daratan la time tu.
kene plan awal2 neh.

p/s: eenn, you are next! hehehe..

tadika dslr #1

bgn, selamat pagi cikgu!

ok2, ni class tadika dslr utk aku letak artikel2 yg aku baca psl dslr.
disbbkn aku dh campak duit beli dslr, maka aku kene lh blajar gune natang neh.

first2, utk tgkp gamab gune dslr ader 3 mende basic yg perlu aku tahu;
1) aperture, 2) shutter speed & 3) iso speed

apakah aperture itu?
aperture adalah bukaan diaphragm yg mengawal brp byk cahaya yg masuk.
f-number berkadar langsung dgn jarak focus & berkadar songsang dgn bukaan diaphragm.
i.e. lg kecik f-number, lg dekat jarak focus (latar belakang akan jd blur) & lg besar bukaan diaphragm.

apakah shutter speed itu?
shutter speed adalah kelajuan tirai lensa yg mengawal brp lama cahaya masuk.
shutter speed berkadar langsung dgn kelajuan buka & tutup tirai lensa.
i.e. lg laju shutter speed & lg laju tirai lensa (pergerakan gamab akan membeku)

apakah iso speed itu?
iso speed mengawal sensor's sensitivity.
ianyer berkadar songsang dgn jumlah cahaya persekitaran & berkadar terus dgn jumlah noise yg terhasil (kekurangan kualiti gamab).
i.e. iso speed tinggi, suasana gelap & noise yg tinggi (kualiti gamab kureng)

so, apakah kaitan antara aperture & shutter speed?
utk gamab yg menarik, setiap f-number ader limit shutter speed yg disarankan & adalah berkadar songsang dgn shutter speed.
i.e. lg kecik f-number, lg laju lh shutter speed yg aku buleh gune.

ape pule kaitan antara aperture, shutter speed & iso speed?
kombinasi antara mereka ini akan menentukan ketajaman, jumlah cahaya & kualiti gamab saya.

ok, jom tangkap gamab!

source: enjoy dslr by canon

Friday, August 22, 2008

2 kg/yr

apakah 2 kg/yr itu?
itu adalah kadar kenaikan berat bdn aku.

mase kecik2 dulu aku suke main tgkp2 belalang.
putuskn kaki belalang tu, masukkn dlm beg plastik & bwk blk rumah.
sampai kt rmh lepaskn belalng tu kt halaman rmh.
konon2 nyer nk bela la & nanti leh jd "Suria Perkasa Hitam" & "Wira Tempur" aku time tu adalah beskal mountain bike Singer kaler hijau.
hahaha, sengal sungguh aku time tu.

tp skrg neh, aku mcm dh fobia utk tgkp belalang.
sbb aper?
sbb pak long aku ckp, belalang tu sbnrnyer hantu pelesit.
damn, lepas tu aku x berani nk tangkap2 belalang dah.

owh, kembali kpd berat bdn.
kt maner naik nyer berat bdn aku neh?
setelah ditimbang kire, berat aku naik kt bahagian perut.
unsur2 spare tyre sudah kelihatan disitu & hilang sudah 6 pack aku (perasan..)
i need to work out!

btw, baru lh aku perasan yg aku adalah sgt particular dgn bdn sendiri.
biler ader lemak2 sikit pn sudah terasa xselesa.
patut lh aku kurus, hehehe..

p/s: kesimpulannyer, sumpahan belalang adalah tidak wujud!

timbunan ketahian

owh, sudah semggu tidak ku update.
ini adalah gara2 ketahian yg bertimbun.

yup, saya menggali tahi yg byk di Turkmenistan ini.
ianya dtg bertimpa2!

1) bridge plug lifted-up
- tgh2 rih flex run tibe2 held-up. mule2 ingat barite settle, tp bile wash-down & drill-out xbuleh. last2 dpt tau bridge plug lifted-up 100 m. mase kat kinabalu hari tu pn bridge plug lifted-up, tp 5 m je. kesimpulan nyer, hp well ader tendency bridge plug lifted-up.

2) cement plug xkeras
- try set cement plug tp cement plug x kering2. xsilap aku, pcsb nyer polisi kene ader 2 barrier. so patutnyer cement open hole b4 proceed ngan testing & set jugak bridge plug utk secure the well.

3) well mati time initial flow
- ini adalah disbbkn kesengal tukang jaga choke manifold. aku dh ckp suruh bukak slow2 tp dia xmo dgr. aper yg aku buat? kecikkn blk bukaan choke & alhamdulillah ianya berhasil.

4) well mati sekali lg time main flow
- silap aku sbb confident yg semua akan ok. lepas 1 jam main flow aku g tdo (sbb dh xtdo lebih dr sehari), then tibe2 org dtg kejut & ckp well nk mati. bgn tdo terus call KL & ckp well nk mati sekali lg. patutnyer aku evaluate situasi tu betul2 dulu br call KL. sbnrnyer ianya adalah slugging, damit!

5) tester valve xleh nk tutup
- biler dh call KL, diorg suruh run wireline & sro sbb diorg suspect something fishy (plugging or sand production). so kene tutup tester valve tp xleh nk tutup la pulaks. last2 tutup je well kat choke manifold.

6) wireline held-up
- wireline held-up time run sro & ccl. so, open well at small choke & rih wireline slowly sampai bottom. kat surface later on, nampak pepejal2 waxy melekat kt tool. so, memasing conclude wax deposition kt downhole.

7) lost ccl signal
- berjaya rih gun sampai bottom tp biler nk position on depth, tibe2 je lost ccl signal. fuck! kene pooh & rerun blk gun tu. biler troubleshot, dpt tahu insulation swell sbb gas flow thru it. incident neh pernah terjadi kt aku, asal aku tk aware?

8) esd tripped
- xsampai 1 jam post add-on flow, tibe2 pulaks esd tripped. troubleshot & dpt tahu esd lost air supply dr rig. esd mmg selalu tripped, pernah terjadi mase test kt angsi-b & d-30.

9) annulus pressure drop
- kurang lebih time esd tripped, annulus pressure pn drop to 0 psi. troubleshot & suspect ader leak kt packer. rig xmo troubleshot packer leak & test supervisor keras kepala xmo tutup well. sepatut nyer kene buat aper eik kalu ader leak kt packer?

10) well mati buat kali yg ke-3
- whp drop slowly to 28 psi. awal2 tu aku ingat sludging mcm mlm sblm nyer. tp kali ni well betul2 mati. aku rase mati sbb mud masuk dlm string. biler ditanye aper kh solution, si pak cik tua ini suruh pooh or bwk ctu. aper kejadah nyer bwk ctu time2 mcm neh, bg la idea2 yg bernas sikit! patut nyer kalu well mati try displace string dgn lighter fluid.

11) slickline held-up & wire kink
- solution yg aku dpt pikirkn adalah rih slickline utk tgk same ade tester valve open or close. time rih slickline aku g tdo & tibe kene kejut sbb diorg ckp wire kink. peringatan kali kedua, jgn tdo pada waktu2 critical & evaluate problem betul2!

12) wireline held-up sekali lg
- apasal xde org bg tau aku yg slickline itu terkink sbb held-up? kalu x, sure2 aku suruh rih sekali lg dgn lib or gauge cutter. tau2 biler rih wireline, held-up kt depth yg same dgn slickline. nampak sungguh la x professional nyer.

13) tubing plugged by sand
- bile rih sand bailer dpt 1 jar of downhole sand sample & estimate tubing plugged by sand 2 km. awal2 dh aku pesan kt team amik downhole sample utk confirmkn wax atau sand, tp xde yg agree. lain kali biler ader stuck or held-up, rih je slickline & amik downhole sample!

14) xbuleh nk kill well
- sbb tubing plugged by sand, so xdpt nk reverse-circulate or bull-head utk kill well. last2, unseat packer & kill well thru annulus. pooh string dgn minyak, gas & sand dlm tubing. nampak la minyak & gas pancut2 atas rig floor.

15) gas alarm during reverse-out hole
- disebabkn xdpt kill well dgn betul, so mase reverse-circulate terdetect gas kt surface. then, kene la slowly condition hole.

there you go, senarai ketahian utk mggu lepas. disbbkn test #1 inconclusive, team decided utk buat test #2. so, tersangkut lh aku kt sini utk ketahiaan yg seterusnyer.

p/s: brace.. brace.. brace..

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

turkmenbashy 2nd assigment

yeargh.. slps ber"cuti" selama 2 mggu, shift 24 jam aku bermule kembali.

ikut2 kn aku lg suke kije sorg2 walaupun terpaksa kekurangan tdo.
sbb setakat neh, pengalaman aku berkije ngan sr2 adalah tidak best.
mesti ader je yg xkene & ader je mende2 ntah aper2 yg diorg suruh buat.

pastu bile aku tanye bab2 kije, claim yg aku neh tau nk spoon-fed je xtau nk blaja sendiri.
bkn ke kalu ader ilmu baik kite share2?

nway, hopefully xde la masalah yg dtg lg utk hari2 berikut nyer.
aku nk blk cepat sbb akak aku bertunang 23/8 neh.
so, kene la blk tlg2 dia sikit.

tag by aliza

question 1: what were u doing 5 yrs ago?
answer: august 2003 - praktikal kat mlng, bintulu. best wo~

question 2: what are the 5 things on ur to-do list?
answer: to-do list? aku xde to-do list, mls nk plan2 sbb nanti sure2 kensel nyer.

question 3: what are the 5 snack that u enjoy?
1) cempedak gureng + kopi o time ujan renyai2
2) twistee kaler coklat
3) mamee perisa bbq mkn time iba tgh drive
4) maggi kari tgh panas2 mkn tepi sungai or air terjun
5) chewing gum bubble yum perisa tembikai

question 4: what are the 5 things that u would do if u were a billionaire?
answer: xcukup dowh billion, nk trilionaire buleh?

question 5: what are the 5 jobs u've had?
1) tukang bancuh air kt kantin klia
2) tukang hantar buku pinjaman dbp kat sekolah2
3) technician / salesman kat imbi plaza
4) crew dunkin donut midvalley & puduraya
5) sales engineer kt klang

ok, finally the 5 lucky people that hopefully will continue this tag:
ader dua je buleh ker?
1) cikyus
2) shon

1st post

walla, akhirnya sudah kepastian diri ini utk memindah ke blog baru neh.

knp pindah?
sbb kepayahan utk access friendster biler dipaggil berkhidmat utk negara.
mule2 tu ingat nk bukak fotopages or flicker, tp diblock juge web2 neh.

apa yg aku nk letak dlm neh?
1) dongenggan kehidupan
- nk transfer dongenggan kehidupan aku dari diary lame2 tu masuk sini & smbg berdongeng kt sini. so nanti xsemaklh bilik aku dgn koleksi2 diary yg akhirnyer jd sumber rezeki anai2.

2) khidmat negara
- yup, nk post kepuasan & ketidakpuasan aku berkhidmat negara kt sini. atleast ader tmpt nk lepas geram. hehe..

3) aktiviti luar pintu
- aku suke baca & print artikel psl aktiviti luar pintu dari internet. yg maner jd sumber kesemak-samunan kt bilik neh. biler ader blog neh, buleh la aku baca, post & buleh bace blk kemudian nyer. so, xde semak2 bilik neh.

4) gamab
- nk bukak fotopages or flicker xcukup pro, so aku rase baik la aku post aje gamab2 yg aku suke dlm sini.

5) bebelan kopitiam
- yeargh, bebelan aku isu2 semasa or aper2 crap yg aku terasa nk tuleh nanti.

nota kaki: hopefully aku buleh terus memblog kat sini. then kalu ader yg terbaca blog neh & terasa ianya xbest. aku peduli aper!